The Eastern Orthodox Church is similar to the Catholic Church in a variety of ways, but I was surprised at how many times we "crossed" ourselves before we even entered the church. We did it outside the church gate, inside the church gate, outside the church, and then as soon as we entered. My mom then bought me candles to light and put near the different paintings/shrines of the saints. Other people in the church were kissing the paintings, bibles, etc, but I declined this tradition for fear of germs....sorry Macedonia. In Kumanovo, the "pope" (priest) of the Macedonian church warned us that the services can last 2 hours. Did I mention that there are NO seats in a Eastern Orthodox Church? No....seats.....whatsoever. I prepared myself, stood with my mother against these "pews" that you can lean against if you get tired and crossed myself as the service began. There were about 5 other people in the church besides my mom and I. After about 15 minutes of chanting from the "pope" and crossing myself about 3 more times, the service was over. I then took communion, which was interesting because I very much felt that it was expected of me to do so, but the "pope" in Kumanovo told us not to do unless we were Eastern Orthodox. Maybe each church is different.
We went home for "ruchek" (lunch) and my mom bought "torta" (cake) to share with the family. While we were eating lunch my mom heard Toshe (Patrick's homestay brother who lives in Skopje) outside our home. I had been told that Toshe is fluent in English, so I ran to the window yelled out to him "Zdravo! Jac cym Jenny! I know Patrick!" Inside I was thinking to myself "OMG SOMEONE WHO CAN UNDERSTAND WHAT I AM SAYING BESIDES PEACE CORPS VOLUNTEERS!" He probably thought I was a crazy person, but he responded to me anyways, and invited me for coffee later with him. Coffee is a HUGE part of the culture here in Macedonia, and I've found that more people are likely to be found in a coffee bar late at night rather than a bar like we would have in America. Often, coffee bars will serve liquor as well as coffee. It's nice to go somewhere where I can have wine and a cappuccino. : )
Makedonski Cappuccino
After ruchek, I was SOOOO excited to see that my mom was helping her neighbor Botcia make the traditional Macedonian dish "Ajbap" (eye-var). Here's a recipe on how to make it, but honestly, you have to experience how painstaking this process is: http://recipes.wikia.com/wiki/Macedonian_Ajvar It takes 2 days to make a large vat of ajbap. I helped with peeling the peppers, but I will have the opportunity to be a part of every step of the ajbap process later in the week. I will post photos of the other steps in future blog messages. Check out these photos from today, though! Peeling the peppers means that after the peppers have been blackened on a metal stove (see the stove on the far left in the photo), and have been left to dry, the blackened skin of the pepper will be peeled away. It smells wonderful, no joke!
Mika (Mom) Sunchi and her coworker. My mom works at a boot factory. (I can't remember my mom's coworker's name, but I know the English translation is "Rose/Rosie". I think it's Rosevah)
Of course, it's imperative I find a puppy within a 50 foot radius of where I am living, no matter where I am. Meet Pixie. He's 3 months old, precious, and kept me company while making ajbap. He is Botcia's puppy.
After ajbarp, Patrick, Toshe and I went to a coffee bar called "талисман"
(Talisman), which is apparently where all the cool kids hang out. Glad I
got invited. Toshe introduced Patrick and I to some of his friends, and
right away I appreciated how the Macedonian people our age have a
sarcastic sense of humor like me. Toshe is an interesting guy. He's a
cardiologist in Skopje and teaches medical students at a university
there. Never have I met a cardiologist who smokes 2 packs a day, but
smoking seems to be another important aspect of this culture. No one in
my homestay family smokes, which is not the norm for Peace Corps
volunteers.
Toshe ordered a drink called "salep" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salep.
Since I cannot get Diet Coke in Kratovo, my new addictions are Sinalco
Fresca (a type of carbonated, lemon water drink) and salep when I got
out with friends. I asked the people I was with what was in salep, and
they started listing off the ingredients, but they started getting "lost
in translation." They started off by saying that salep is popular in
Macedonia and was brought over by the Turkish empire ("Salep is popular
in Macedonia, cause, ya know, we were being fucked by the Turks for so
long." - A Macedonian friend who shall remain anonymous...sorry for the
swearing, Mom in America!) Toshe told me that the drink was supposed to relax a
person, and that it is made from the root of a plant. His friend Danche
(female) was saying "Yeah, it has roots, flour, cocaine, and sugar." I
gave her a weird look when she said cocaine...she said it with such a
straight face that I thought maybe I misheard her. I kept repeating
"Cocaine? Cocaine? Are you sure you are saying the right word?" They
thought this was hilarious as I kept giving her doubtful eyes. "Yes,
cocaine! It will help relax you! You'll feel great!" Once again, the
people here enjoy sarcasm. I ordered one to try, and Toshe and Danche told the waiter "Make sure to put extra cocaine in her drink! Can you put extra
cocaine in there?" I wouldn't be surprised if there was cocaine in
it...the drink is so addictive.
Ciao for now! Check out the photo below of my other addiction, Sinalco Fresca:
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